Prusa reddit In the end I ended up choosing for a Prusa for largely 2 reasons: I like building the printer myself, adds to the fun for me. Prusa are among the most reliable under $1000, but even the $5000 machines sometimes take days spent with support before they’re working to spec. The Reddit Home for Metallica! Please be sure to review the rules before posting. Get support, learn new information, and hang out in the subreddit dedicated to Pixel, Nest, Chromecast, the Give it a year or 2 and prusa probably will release an mk4 v2. Post anything that relates to these 3d printers, personal projects, new designs, improvements, questions, news or anything that relates to the main topic. Whenever I've ordered something from Prusa in the past (new printer, upgrade, etc. A slightly cheaper (~100€ less) option is printer-box, they also support mk4 with the latest model. ) I always order a roll or two of prusament as well: it's some of the best and nicest filament I've used. Creality is a cheap 3d printers brand, prusa was always the quality option. “Finicky” doesn’t even come close to just how difficult it is to get the MMU2S to operate. Also, as for the price, the MK3S is an open source design, so you can get kits from China that are legit. My X1 can be fairly quiet when printing slowly, but I don't have a Prusa to compare it with so I cannot comment on how it compares. I wanted to ask: What do I do to build a Prusa i3 MK3S printer DIY? Is this enough: If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on reddiquette, self promotion, and spam. The Prusa worked after I built it and has been cranking out perfect parts since. ie like a car and its transmission. Your filament may be wet and need drying. Most years I see something like "free shipping" - which for most printers is close to a $50 savings if shipping to the US. Prusa seems to be the last commercial project dedicated to the original reprap and open hardware ideals. It has one gear with bearings and ptfe tube. Not even A1 related, just others complaining about bambu's slow to nonexistent support. Prusa is reliable and it’s likely tgr best way into modding 3D printers or building your own. In all other versions they have given a way to upgrade your machine in the process, but honestly sometimes it’s symbolic more than practically - Mk2 to Mk3 was a huge change (eg: removable beds) and Mk3 to Mk4 will likely include a new motherboard, USB access and new LCD screen at minimum. Whatever the printer I had, after proper tuning, all printed exactly the same. I decided to build my own printer given that I'm in a region where importing the Prusa kit will be exorbitantly expensive, if even possible at all. And, of course, Prusa will make sure you can't buy parts from anywhere else than their place. They have known the extruder was the main culprit of 602 for 4 years but done nothing about it. On my first print it jammed over two dozen times. Time is "cheap" these days. Moving the PSU is a personal choice, I print ABS maybe once every 3 months, 90% PLA and sometimes PETG parts which doesn’t fit on the Prusa Mini. Its mainly is where Reddit comes to discuss the topics that Phil talks about and post memes of Phil Members Online. All things related to Prusa 3D printers. (I'd also like to note this is my first prusa ever). That's a great move from Prusa. u/spez says, regarding reddit content, "we are As for Prusa Black Friday, they usually have some sale. 75mm it will go thru a Prusa's E3D v6 hotend just like any other carbon filled nylon. I'm 12 hours into a 16-hour print on my MK4 with a 100C bed, and the temp inside said Prusa enclosure is 10 above ambient. Look who I spotted in the audience of the Kevin Smith special. 2 fixed a lot of things except one thing that I can't stop from happening. But outside of that, due to the high cost of shipping (and the colors I like continually being out of stock), I need to look at alternatives. The advantages of ordering from Printed Solid are basically faster shipping, no import duties for large orders, and the ability to place a domestic order if your business has difficult policies about international orders. I hear bitching about Prusa's In the meantime, Prusa is selling an unfinished outdated Mk4 and XL is nowhere to be seen. I replaced all of the PTFE with 3mm ID / 4mm OD going to and from the buffer. I got my Mk3 a few years ago on Black Friday. Prusa printers have always been on my mind, but I find them to be quite expensive. Beside that I really like Prusa's soft factors, apart from being slow at innovating I really like the company's stance on local production, quality over speed, open source, upgradable & repairable. Post anything that relates to these 3d printers, personal With the Core ONE, Prusa Research is no longer in the business of making open source 3D printer hardware, but that doesn’t mean that the printer isn’t hackable. For the mk3s I need to get raspberry pi for remote printing, and an enclosure for ABS so that's added cost. The prusa Mini is quite high quality, the adventurer has some very cheap materials and some issues (need to get or print a /r/prusa is a place for people to discuss the open source Prusa 3d printer design. Prusa and perhaps Bambu serve this market segment very well. Anyways, our time is less important after all. Basically every other surface type you need either a release agent or adhesive, both of which mess up your print surface. Even the Prusa textured sheet I've never had much success with in terms of PETG. To be honest, you posted this question on a Prusa subreddit. Has anyone tried to Print ABS on the prusa xl with a enclosure? Is it recomended to reprint the prusa xl parts in abs or are the provided PETG parts sufficient? In my experience, the Prusa is just better. Prusa has a QA problem (or a design problem) with the hotend. Note: Reddit is dying due to terrible leadership from CEO /u/spez. 1 year warranty for everything, 2 year for the bed and Einsy board. That causes the filament to leak between the PTFE and the heatbreak. It still is a solid upgrade for the mk3 that is probably worth it. If I was to order a 5 tool xl and ship to United States, what should I expect to get hit with for import costs. These are the two I'm debating for my first 3d printer. Prusa uses 2. Prusa officially changed the XL's default nozzle from 0. 2. Bambu seems to want to make things increasingly proprietary, which I'm I've recently purchased a used Prusa MK3S 3D printer. And most these issues are universal to all 3D I've been printing with the 'natural' and 'tree brown' at 215/65 (first layer and other layers) with no issues. Ender 3 S1 Pro and there was a number of comments regarding the mini. Edit: So, if Prusa wants to ensure he keeps the price-point where it is, which is already a (worthwhile) 'premium' above the competitors, then he'd probably be choosy on which upgrades are incorporated to keep the price static. There are also plenty of mods like integrating a raspberry with octoprint & screen directly to the enclosure panel, air ventilation & filtration etc comparable with prusa enclosure I would say (based on reviews, I have not used the prusa one). The Prusa satin sheet really is incredible. After the 3. Discover the elegance of the Supernote, an e-notebook designed for distraction-free writing, reading, and annotating. Redwraith323 • Additional comment actions. Anyone have a favorite source for HIGH Sure, the deluge of Ender 3 clones helped make 3d printing more mass market on the bottom end, but Bambu is pushing directly onto Prusa's [more premium] product stack, and they [Prusa] will need to adapt long term because of it. Sub-reddit dedicated to Weber Depends on what your priorities are. I have zero complains with my machines, even with the minor issues I have had to engage support to assist. Welcome to FXGears. The price Prusa's cost there should be longer warranty on the more expensive parts. But it seems like printed The Prusa products sold by Printed Solid aren't manufactured in the United States, they still come from the Czech Republic. I have mini, mk3 and mk4. Hi there, just getting into the hobby. Testing several parts with freshly dried Sunlu filament at 205C, I tried: - With and without wiping - . I’ve recently gotten back into the world of 3d printing (I currently have a Monoprice Mini V2). I got three more. 4mm, which significantly improved print Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Yeah - I think it’s smart to try to use whatever’s already existing in the code base. The voron is an enclosed machine and gets warmer hence the need for ABS, it would be interesting to see how prusa recommends the parts for a MK3 should be printed in the new enclosure. 5 is significantly older than Bambu as a company. The problems reported with it are either very "first-world" problems (which won't keep you from printing at all), or one issue with the PTFE tube which is by now documented ad naeuseam here or on the Prusa forums (and seems to have an easy fix). Also I really don't like their advertisment with the Mk4 and input shaping. 5mm ID which is slightly harder to find at length. Please use our Discord server instead of supporting a company that acts against its users and unpaid moderators. That's smart! That's why I love prusa. After getting a couple of Prusa Mini's, and seeing how much quieter they were than my Printrbot, Ender 3, and MP Minidelta, I was excited to get a Prusa for home and finally have a quite printer. Because you get to build it yourself without it being too complicated or involved. 0 firmware release notes say that version gives the mini pressure advance, which is not exactly the same as linear advance. nejdemiprispivat • r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment The XL is the noisiest printer I own. If you really want to compare bambu vs prusa then you should compare the Bambu A1 vs the Prusa MK4. upvotes All things related to Prusa 3D printers. I ultimately went with the Mini+ semi assembled. I began tweaking things according to advice from other MMU2S users. Show off your prints, or ask a question. My semi assembled, 5 tool head XL arrived a day after Teaching Tech's video on it and 4 hours after the Prusa Slicer beta with ramping. The point of the Prusa enclosure isn't to make it hot enough inside to print huge parts from nylon. Sounds good. By my 20th print attempt failure, I was researching the forum boards, Reddit, comments on Prusa’s site, and YouTube. It is the only turn-key solution for printing PETG that I've found. I test and configure the k-factor for every single type of filament I print on my MK2s, but I have yet to identify an appropriate test pattern to check the pressure advance values (for my MK4). Always will be cheaper waiting 3x more time to finish anything. Not sure if that was on reddit or website, but I started looking last fall. it is though limited in size compared to some of the bigger models, so if you need bigger than 127×80×150 you will have to look else where Prusa's docs also give the IO pins so I thought about doing continuity checks back to the processor, but if there's level shifters etc it won't work and I haven't seen schematics. Not saying you’re wrong, just trying to understand. According to Reddit, SanDisk is considered a reputable brand. Prusa released updates for the XL's firmware and slicer, improving multi-color print logic and adding missing documentation. Too much retraction can cause a blob to come out regardless since the material splits in the nozzle, and Prusa seems to understand this with their default settings. well, you cant compare creality and bambu. On paper and what I've had my Prusa for over 6 years with many many days worth of printing done on it. Prusa demo logo. I wouldn't consider it a full review, more just my thoughts and experiences so far. r/pop_os. It reflects our consensus on Noisewise it’s like printing with the Prusa on a Lack shelf, maybe a little more dampening. - Prusa have the hardware, drivers AND slicer, again another kickstarter problem above which resulted in an unused new hardware, the Prusa printer has a slicer, squirt your 3D design in and it will slice, this has been a HUGE thing for us Prusa support is legendary and you'll easily find information on how to do so. No such luck there. There just is a lot of very bad decisions and even puzzling ones. Just NONE. There are a couple of videos on suggestions. That has me upset. Prusa made it sound like z adjusting is thing of the past thanks to the force sensor. However, if you want a more solidly built machine with most likely 3x the speed of the prusa, then get the P1P. Prusa upgraded MK4S by ramping up the flow, increasing the cooling, and developing a mobile app. Essentially copied the Prusa (not Prusament) PLA profile. It seems that Prusa was planning on an SPI interface to the accel, so on your accel board, you’d need to configure it for SPI. Seem like there is a ton of community support for prusa, but the adventurer just looks so nice and simple. It's in almost new condition, with 109 days of usage, and it's completely stock with no modifications yet (it has only LED light bar and Just as I was debating this internally, I saw a mess of threads in the Bambu reddit. FlashForge Adventurer 3 . We have designated days and mega-threads for certain types of content. /r/prusa is a place for people to discuss the open source Prusa 3d printer design. They still need to prove that their printers are I chose Prusa because it's a bit more open and Bambu was too new for me to be confident at the time of my purchase. In terms of price, I think the Ender 3 would be better, but considering the printing quality and convenience, the Prusa Mini seems to be better, so I keep thinking about it. 5 upgrade the reliability of my printer evaporated. Reply reply More replies More replies. Either the PTFE tube shrinks, or the hotend isn't properly adjusted. It’s Hi, guys I've been considering for a few weeks whether to buy the Prusa Mini or the Ender 3, but now I want to make a decision. Butis the A4 as much of a workhorse as the i3? 13 votes, 33 comments. 8mm(standard prusa retraction value) vs 3mm retraction All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Even if Prusa were to release the highly anticipated Prusa MK4 with equivalent specs and pricing as the P1P/Carbon, it would still be playing catch-up. r/prusa: /r/prusa is a place for people to discuss the open source Prusa 3d printer design. I'm leaning the slightest toward the Prusa just because of the backing but I can't help but notice Bambu. The responses will skew more in favor of the Prusa offerings. Prusa needs to get on top of their logistics and ordering process. A And unlike people guessing on reddit, they know exactly how to fix their printer if you have an issue. And Prusa provides 24x7 tech support via live chat. Prusa I3 Mk3s+ : From what I’ve seen, read about, and heard, the Prusa also seems to be a well known and reliable printer. Members Online. It seems Prusa is just sharing the max rating for safety. I'm sure Markforged is good quality, but I'm also sure they'll charge whatever the military is willing to pay. The official home of #Supernote lineup on Reddit. Valheim; Genshin Impact; Minecraft; Pokimane; Hi guys, so I'm trying to finalize my decision between a Mk4 Prusa and a P1s. I purchased the following upgraded parts: -Genuine E3D complete hot end -Prusa filament sensor -Prusa super pinda -Prusa metal heartbreak -Bearings off Amazon. They want to save our money bringing the slowest printers on the industry, so our bearings don't suffer. The Octoprint author has made it clear that the software would work fine if Prusa just released to her the firmware so she can make the mods (on the Prusa forum, don't make me search for the links again) Frankly, if it came to leaving Prusa and I couldn't find another company that is parallel to my needs, I'd just build a Voron. If you want something that works, Prusa, they are also investing ALOT in the farm / remote control, ive just gotten the Prusa Link / Prusa Connect working and i have to say , its kinda fast, i can increast spending speed ONLINE and it push that back to the printer almost live, thats really nice. And now imagine if Prusa had been presented with a funding in the millions, access to a mass-manufacturing plant and all that while not having to fulfil pending orders, run a new website, provide technical support and earn their I think that's incorrect. Also direct extrusion > Does anyone know whether Josef Prusa has said anything about recent competitors like Bambu? Do you think he is worried? Or maybe he has a specific reason to think that Prusa will still win The first thing you get with a Prusa printer is proven longevity. The buffer I have pointing As far as I can tell, you will print successfully immediately after opening the box and doing the rather easy assembly. Prusa isn't releasing a new model every year if that is what you are asking, but it is fast, it looks nicer than most 4k printers i have seen and build like a tank, and prusa support is great like always. The prusa is print and play. These users aren't the ones hanging out on reddit and ordering parts to customize their printers, they just use their printer(s) as appliances. My MK2. I'm thinking rather than being continually caught out without replacements when I want to keep my printers rolling I'm wanting to just buy two or three sets of rods, bearings, belts, pulleys, etc. The Prusa has better everything, its quieter and much smarter. Absolutely not an issue for printed parts or any of the electrical components. New Prusa user, having moved from an Ender and a series of third party buildplates, but I assumed it was absolutely standard to wash a springsteel plate in hot soapy water prior first use. Get an idea of Pi mounts first to determine the length - mine is mounted on the upper-left frame and uses a 6". Another option I see is get the 1 head from printed solid, then buy the 5 head upgrade from prusa directly. But nowadays prusa and bambu offer the same quality, bambu does everything that prusa foes but just cheaper and I agree with all of this. Disclosure: I own and use a Prusa Mini, Prusa MK3S and a 5 tool Prusa XL. I just built a fystec clone - I replaced the hotend with a trianglelabs all metal, used spare belts from my prusa, used the square nuts from the Prusa spares bag and used my old noctua for the hot end (my real prusa has a sunon). The Cr10 is for the hobbyist and the Prusa is a tool. Supernote is a co-design product with our users. The great thing about a Prusa is that once you get it dialed in with the temperatures and first layer it just prints and you'll spend little time fiddling around with it. Its most popular types of products are: MP3 Players (#4 of 24 brands on Reddit) MicroSD Cards (#2 of 14 brands on Reddit) I also switched from Cura to Prusaslicer a while ago, after Cura deleted all my profiles after an update, and I never went back! Also the support settings are so much better in Prusaslicer - I always struggled with the support and they were Prusa states that his intent is to keep the 'Mk4' price as the same as Mk3. I use a short, switched power strip so I can turn my printer and Rasberry Pi on and off together. I particularly like the Prusa Mini, but it's also quite costly. I'm at a point where that the Mini may be a better fit for me right now. So what youre saying is not true. The issues you see most often on the sub are from very new users asking for clarification. Sure it costs a lot more but it's worth it in the long run if you are serious about it. Usually, accelerometers come with drivers from the vendor. I own both a Prusa MK3 and a CR-10s. 🚨 PSA: Your MINI just got several times faster! 🚀 Our team has done the impossible and ported the MK4 firmware to the MINI’s modest CPU and smaller RAM 🤯 We like to support our machines for many years after launch with regular updates and improvements. Don't get me wrong, I like Prusa, I bought MK3s in 2019 after giving up on Ender 3 and it was refreshing to get the printer that just works but times have changed and Prusa is not adapting fast enough. I believe they are almost identical except the bambu is the same or better quality, has an easy and very functional filament changer and is like half the price. This is probably going to be a pretty rambly post. That's why they are more expensive. There wasn't any pro to keep the Prusa. Reply reply Prusa is your best bet for reliability to get started, the printer is a workhorse and Prusa slicer is super optimized for the printer. When the price to repair is almost the cost of a brand new printer somewhere else? Something, is off. 6mm to 0. Would be pretty depressing to see Lulzbot go under and return not really committed to reprap ideals, E3D start patenting things I started this thread yesterday : Prusa i3 MK3S+ vs. Honestly I undestand Prusa and them going for the B2B sales side of things, the sales are higher with less customers, less support time is neaded, and the support you provide is usually paid for, I get it, but they should have stopped the bed slingers sometime ago and just released a small and a large solid basic CoreXY machine and had some nice upgrade paths for these, allowing The kit assembly was just as easy as the Prusa Kit. Of course Prusa is out of stock but I'm finding that Printed Solid is out as well, but a couple other sellers have some alternative rods and bearing. And I didn't bother with the bed - used an old prusa sheet. Mostly because the 2 feet of included PTFE wasn’t long enough. Prusa will almost certainly release a Mk4 within 5 years. The issue you are talking about is not present on prusa mini. If you just want a silent printer, then go for the Prusa. Prusa mini does not have direct dual gears extruder. Although it has a pretty high price point, it seems to be full of very nice features like Mesh Bed Leveling, option for the MMU upgrade, and more. Reset laptop BIOS - ASUS G512L(V) upvote r/pop_os. The (un)official home of #teampixel and the #madebygoogle lineup on Reddit. Either way, with a Pi3+, look for a short USB cable between the Pi and the Prusa. Reply reply More replies. Filament is filament, as long as it's nylon and 1. I don’t care much about it. That's not very "open source"-minded. Concering to hear Z still needs fiddling. Others it is strictly email with days between responses unless you are an influencer. Or check it out in the app stores     TOPICS. The Prusa cost of entry is just starting to get way too high now. You will appreciate all the features the prusa offers vs how little the crealitys provide and I love the cr10. Then i might consider buying said kit. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. I recently got my Prusa Mini. I got really excited when I heard they were planning to release new firmware, and then came the A1. First Things to Print. Firmware 5. Either way, it leave a gap at the bottom of the PTFE between it and the bottom of the heatbreak. com, a trading /r/prusa is a place for people to discuss the open source Prusa 3d printer design. I did purchase some upgrades to be used during the build. Pop!_OS is an operating system for 5. Someone at Prusa forgot his RepRap roots That adds to the "overrated" thing. I also just moved off of OctoPrint/OctoFarm and am now using Prusa Connect. Pictures of boxes and shipping notices are considered low-effort and will be removed. I spent some time last night and this morning comparing the two, and reviews of the Mini. Prusa Mini+ vs. com's Reddit Forex Trading Community! Here you can converse about trading ideas, strategies, trading psychology, and nearly everything in between! ---- We also have one of the largest forex chatrooms online! ---- /r/Forex is the official subreddit of FXGears. And, this is a Prusa sub Reddit, so the replies will tend to promote the positives of Prusa machines. 1. Better parts, better results, better support. It's my first 3D Printer, and I am super happy with the prints so far. Gaming. Well adhered layers and perimeters, no stringing. yryaaia yapq ibbfxf lodw psappu oipqkk arbhr emmo wjrimld poqa